“A stitch in time saves nine” this adage beautifully describes the quilt or kantha making tradition of Bangladesh. Rural women make quilts from old clothes. In Bangla, the word “Quilt” means Kantha (কাঁথা). This word originated from Sanskrit word “kontha” which means rags. Kantha is made of rags.
Quilt had been widely produced and used in different ancient civilizations. In the Indian subcontinent, rural women started making quilts from a pragmatic perspective. Eventually, quilt did not just remain an article for day to day use but a highly creative folk art. The surface of the quilt became a canvas for ordinary women. They expressed themselves by making beautiful embroideries.
Historical background:
The earliest mention of kantha can be found in “Sri Sri Chaitanya Charitamrita” by Krishnadas Kaviraj in the 15th century. In this book, Sri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu’s mother, Sachi Mata, sends a kantha for her son with the pilgrims as a token of her blessings and remembrance. This historical Kantha is preserved in Gambhira at Puri.
Katha is also mentioned in Rig Veda, Upanishads and Panini’s text. Ascetic mendicants, Lord Buddha, Mahavir, Jain saints, sufi poets used kantha.
Kantha samples that are preserved in museums are only a few hundred years old. The oldest kantha sample dates from the early 1800s. Kantha has been used by the ordinary people of this region for a long time but nakshi kantha and other artistic kantha embroidery are thought to have flourished in the medieval period in Bengal. Back then, people believed that old clothes had protective powers. They could keep harmful spirits at bay. It was believed that a woman’s dreams and wishes would be fulfilled if she would stitch them on kantha.
Kantha making:
In the rainy season, village women did not have much work in their hands. So they made kanthas by stitching old clothes. A typical village woman sits down with needles, used clothes, threads and a betel leaf pot. She neatly puts the old clothes in layers and stitches them together with a reinforcing running stitch. Slowly and steadily she stitches while indulging in chewing betel leaf with thinly sliced areca nuts, scented tobacco, slacked lime and other spices. Sometimes, women from the neighborhood join her. Together they gossiped, chewed betel leaf and assisted in making the quilt. They work long hours from noon to dusk.
Kanthas vary in length and thickness based on materials and usage. Old lungi, dhoti, sari, or sheets of clothes are used to make kanthas but sari is the most preferred material. The old cloth is first cleaned with rice water. This kind of cleaning process is called starching. This makes the cloth more crisp and fresh.
The basic stitch to make kantha is called running stitch. Using different variations of this running stitch, kantha makers stitch layered clothes on the border to make the kantha durable. Three to seven sarees are used to make a regular kantha. Long stitches are broken on the reverse side by one or more short stitches which gives the kantha its dotted look.
Colored threads are collected from saree borders. Red, blue, green, yellow, orange, sky, light green, violet, pink, black and white colored threads are used for embroidery on the kantha.
Women did not make these kanthas for commercial purposes. They made it for their families. Women all over the world in different civilizations stitched kanthas. The making process and form may be different but the maker is definitely a woman. This is what makes kantha a very unique art form. It is exclusively practiced by women.
Different types of kanthas:
Kantha is made for different uses in daily lives.
Light kanthas: Light kanthas are used during mild winters and cool monsoon nights.
Lep kantha: Lep (লেপ) is a Bengali word. It means a thick blanket stuffed with cotton. Measuring 61/4” x 41/2,” lep kanthas tend to be thicker and heavier. Rajashahi and Chapai Nawabganj make lep kanthas. Nowadays, we use stoles during winter which is considered the modern version of lep kantha.
Galicha: It is used as floor spread.
Bastani or Gatir: It is a 3ft by 3ft kantha used to wrap clothings and other valuable items in the household.
Wallet or Batua: Batua (বটুয়া) means a bag made of cloth for keeping money.
Arshilota: In Bangla, Arshi (আর্শি) means mirror. This kind of kantha is used to keep the toiletries. You can also call it a cosmetic wrapper. At present, this kind of kantha design is used to make rectangular mobile phone pouches. This pouch has wide borders on all four sides with floral motifs.
Nakshi kantha: A kantha embellished with beautiful embroidery works.
Lohori kantha:
In Bengali, lohori (লহরী) means waves. The name of this kantha derived from Sanskrit. There is a Persian word “Lehr” which also means waves. Rajshahi is famous for making these types of kanthas. Thick yarn is used for close pattern darning in this kantha. This kantha is further divided into three categories based on embroidery pattern-
- Soja (straight or simple)
- Kautar khupi (pigeon coop or triangle)
- Borfi or diamond (charchala, atchala or barachala).
Lik or Anarasi:
Anaras (আনারস) is Bangla word which means Pineapple. Chapai Nawabganj is famous for these types of kathas. These kanthas also have variations based on design patterns. They are-
- Lik tan
- Lik tile
- Lik jhumka
- Lik lohori.
Cross-stitch or carpet kantha:
This kantha was introduced during the British rule. It is made with cross-stitch.
Sujni kantha:
Sujni kantha is a heavily embroidered thin kantha. It is used as a ceremonial wrap and sit for honored guests. At present sujni kanthas are used as bed covers and wall hangings.
It takes lots of skills to make a sujni kantha.
Baytun kantha:
It is a 3 ft by 3ft square shaped kantha used to wrap belongings such as books and old clothes. It is also used as cover for old trunks. Animal and human figures are embroidered on the border of these kanthas. Complex embroidery designs with intricate details are done at the center of the kantha. Currently, baytun kanthas are used as table covers or wall hangings.
Durjani kantha:
A square shaped kantha with embroidered borders all around and a lotus at the center. This kantha is folded and stitched at the three corners and used as a traditional bag. Things like areca nuts, money and needle work articles, rosary are carried in the bag.
Oar kantha:
This thin kantha is used as pillow covers. These kanthas have longitudinal border patterns on its body.
Rumal kantha:
Rumal (রুমাল) is a Bengali word which means handkerchief. From the name, it is clear that this kantha is used as a handkerchief. Rumal kantha has lotus at the center and other motifs are drawn around it.
Swaddling clothes for newborn babies:
Rural Bangladesh has a long tradition of making new quilts for babies. These are like swaddling clothes.
Prayer rugs:
These kanthas are used in Muslim households to say prayers.
Gilaf:
This is an envelope shaped kantha. It is used to cover the Quran.
Dastarkhān:
A kind of table cloth. Instead of table, it is spread on the floor and then foods are placed above it. In village homes, dastarkhān is used during meals. Elegantly designed dastarkhān is used when guests are invited.
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